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I ran 40km and knit a hat for my 40th birthday

2024-03-04T23:57:24Z

For my 40th birthday I decided to run just over a mile (1.66km) every hour for 24 hours for a total of 40km (almost 25 miles) from midnight to midnight. This challenge is inspired by Beau Miles' video "Running a marathon, one mile every hour", where he ran 26 miles in 24 hours and did various chores between miles. But instead of chores my goal was to knit an entire cabled hat between laps. The hat pattern I decided to knit is Uljhan by Shweta Shankar Khatri, a two-color cabled worsted weight hat.

Figure 1. Finished hat

When my sister and brother-in-law heard about my plan, they bought me 24 snacks. They wrote the name of each snack on a card. After each lap, I drew one of the cards at random and at whatever it said. That was my calories sorted.

To measure the effects of sleep deprivation I also did one round of Puzzle Storm on lichess after each lap every hour — it is a game where you solve as many easy (but progressively harder) chess puzzles as you can in 3 minutes. I usually consider a Puzzle Storm score of over 30 to mean I’m feeling sharp (my all-time high is 39), anything between 20-30 is normal, and if I score below 20 I know I’m too tired to be trying to play chess.

I had expected the lack of sleep to be the most difficult part of the challenge. I’m someone who generally operates on a solid 9 or 10 hours of sleep per day. But it was surprisingly not an issue. Looking at the Puzzle Storm sparkline chart below, there’s not a pattern corresponding to tiredness. The only naps I took were between 4am and 7am, and those totaled less than an hour together. I think having the knitting to concentrate on (“just get one row done”) was enough to distract my mind from sleep.

Data

Explore the results with the interactive dashboard below (use arrow keys or the buttons to go to progress between hours). Full-screen version here. Click photos for larger versions.

Colophon

For details on the hat pattern, see my project on Ravelry: 40km Birthday Beanie

The dashboard I made from notes I took during each lap. I converted the notes to a JSON array of objects, and then used my usual approach of write an es6 class to store the state and a bunch of DOM references for each component. It is a technique somewhere between the spaghetti of storing state directly in DOM everywhere and using some “modern” framework like vue/react that I usually settle on for small projects (and sometimes big projects).

You can see all the data and javascript here: dashboard.js

It took me almost two years to get around to converting my notes into the interactive dashboard. I finally asked an LLM to prototype something up, and even my local model (qwen3-30b-a3b) got something working and fun almost immediately! I didn’t use the code it generated in the end, but it was enough to get me motivated to work on my own version. I also had it give me examples of the card flip animation and SVG sparklines that I based my code on.

Things I made in 2023: A Year of Knits, Crochet, and 3D Creations

2024-01-01T00:36:34Z

I have continued to knit in 2023, and I also reminded myself how to crochet. As usual, check the Ravelry link for the pattern, more photos, and more details of each project. You can view all 13 of the projects mentioned below at once: 2023 Projects on Ravelry

Click any of the images below for bigger versions. And as always, thank you to my sister for making everything look better with her modeling and photography!

Table of Contents

Beware the Mighty Septopus!
Pom poms
The big projects
Crochet
- Doilies!
- Yellow Hex Christmas Stocking
Bonus: 3D Prints
Up next

Beware the Mighty Septopus!

At the end of last year’s roundup I had finished a single octopus colorwork mitten for my sister. I finished the pair, and also a sweater to go with them!

Both cephalopod designs (the mittens by Emily Peters and the sweater by Maia E. Sirnes) feature tentacles that wrap around the entire piece.

I lined the mittens with polar fleece — which was the first and, unfortunately, last thing I used my sewing machine for in 2023.

For both pieces I managed the floats using ladderback jacquard. The small mittens were a good practice for the sweater. In both projects I started the ladders using the lifted increase method, but those are visible in several places on the rightside of the sweater and I wish I had tried using the backwards loop cast on method mentioned in the ysolda tutorial (linked above).

The inside of the sweater showing my ad hoc ladderbacks

Ravelry Project: Mindy’s Mighty Septopus
Ravelry Project: Octopus Mittens

Pom poms

Before finishing the mittens and sweater, I made a couple of beanies out of a single skein of closeout ($3) acrylic yarn. (The hat on the left in the photo is Snap by Tin Can Knits which I made as a beta tester for their new app)

In the fall I went on a road/hiking trip in the American Southwest. We stayed in Roswell, NM, on our first night, so I found and made an alien-themed beanie pattern before leaving.

Like the octopus pieces, I managed the floats in the colorblocks between and within the alien faces with ladderback jacquard.

I don’t really want to believe

While in the car I cast on for a second hat: the Sockhead Slouch Hat by Kelly McClure. It is a slouchy stockinette cap meant to be done with a single skein of sock yarn. I chose the Tiger Lily sock yarn because its turquoise and rust colors remind me of the Southwest.

I worked on the hat several nights in my tent during a 4-day, 70-mile hike on the Arizona Trail, more on the drive back through New Mexico, and finally finished the day we arrived home.

Winter hiking in Arizona is nice, except the sun sets so early that we were at camp for many hours before bed every night. It was nice to have a project to work on. I highly recommend something portable and stockinette like this pattern for winter hiking.

Unfortunately I didn’t take any photos of it while working on the trail, but my sister was kind enough to model it when we got home. Despite it having no pom pom, this has become my most-worn hat I’ve made… but even the superwash merino sock yarn can become quite itchy to me!

Kelly also has a Sockhead Cowl pattern to match the hat which looks like it could work like a neck gator (I wear my Buffs all the time), so I am definitely planning on making one of those.

Ravelry Project: O’go bulky hats
Ravelry Project: Roswell Cap
Ravelry Project: Sockhead on the Arizona Trail

The big projects

While I think the Embrace Octopus sweater is the most visually striking project of the year, once I calculated the gauge to work with lighter yarn (including some modifications to the charts), the actual knitting went pretty quickly. I did finish three projects that took significant amounts of time.

Cholla’s Bahama Blanket

I started this in the summer of 2022 and didn’t finish until February 2023. In 2020 I finished two Tunisian crochet throw blankets, so working on this one felt quite familiar. Though this is my first chevron pattern.

I made this one for my sister’s cat Cholla.

Ravelry Project: Cholla’s Bahama Blanket

Oceanspray Shawl

The Oceanspray shawl is about 81,000 stitches. The first two thirds of the pattern are mostly stockinette (with some yarnovers), which drag on a bit, but the payoff is the elm leaf edging.

18" x 12"

I also did a little lace kerchief in the same yarn. (I still have several skeins of the green Alpaca Cloud yarn left, so another large lace shawl is probably in the queue for 2024.)

Ravelry Project: Oceanspray
Ravelry Project: Ostrich Feather Lace Kerchief

The Book Exchange Book Exchange Cardigan

Years ago, before I really knew how to knit (at least before I had made any garments), I received book Knitting Brioche as a gift. From the patterns in the back I selected the Book Exchange Cardigan as one I would like to try some day. Later, about a year and a half ago, WEBS was having a sale on Cascade 220 ($8/100g) so I bought 10 skeins with that cardigan in mind. This October I actually cast on. I had one gauge mishap and had to restart after almost finishing the back… but I finally finished (and it fits)!

This cardigan has saddle shoulders and a cowl collar

I haven’t even calculated how many stitches this cardigan contains, but it took me over 3 months of dedicated knitting and 820g (1.8 lb) of wool. The Cascade 220 yarn is actually soft enough for me to wear, it fits (even buttoned up), the brioche fabric is fluffy, and it has pockets! It is my favorite garment I’ve made for myself so far.

In the book, Nancy says the pattern is named after a used bookstore she frequented in Amsterdam. In a synchronicitous turn of events I finished the cardigan on December 20th, and my family had decided that we would (for the first time) do a "white elephant" style book exchange on Christmas Eve as our Christmas gathering this year. So I got to wear my new Book Exchange to a book exchange.

Ravelry Project: The Book Exchange Book Exchange Cardigan

Crochet

I haven’t crocheted (except for Tunisian) since completing some simple crochet beanies back in 2019, so I decided to do some small projects to remind myself how.

One thing I discovered after completing most of the projects below is that I had been crocheting wrong! I was creating the new stitch to the left of the stitch below (with the right side facing). But the usual way is to create the stitch to the right of the stitch in the previous row. My way not only introduces more left-leaning bias when worked in the round, but it can be more difficult especially right before chains that tend to be very tight. I don’t know if I always crocheted that way, or if I only just recently re-taught myself wrong 🤷

For reference, Shelley Husband has a blog post on where to insert when creating stitches (think of rightside stitches as a capital letter P, “The circley bit of the P is where you poke your hook if you’re working into the stitch”): How to work into a stitch (and around, and between and…)

Doilies!

Clockwise from top-left: Dawnglow by Julia Hart with 2.25mm hook, Boo! by Marsha Glassner with 1.75mm hook, Dawnglow #2 with 1.75mm hook, Elise by Grace Fearon with Clover 1.75mm hook

Thread crochet has always looked impressive to me, so I decided to get back into crochet by trying to make some doilies (using #10 thread). I have been happy to find active designers publishing modern doily patterns. These three in particular have many patterns I’d like to try:

Grace Fearon — She has 157 designs on Ravelry and several print books.
Julia Hart — 104 designs on Ravelry
Irina Maleeva — 31 designs on Ravelry

One thing I learned from my first attempt (which turned out much larger than expected) is that you can’t trust the size stamped on cheap steel hooks! I measured the ones I had with some calipers, and not only were many of the sizes wrong, they weren’t even monotonic: some of the smaller sizes were actually larger in diameter than the ones that were supposed to be several sizes larger than them. I ended up buying a set of Clover steel hooks which are much more accurate (and ergonomic).

So far my favorite result is a textured doily called Elise by Grace Fearon that I did in a soft blue thread. But my most impressive is a two-color version of Marsha Glassner’s Halloween themed ghost doily I worked out how to do.

For Christmas I made some snowflakes following an Irina Maleeva pattern. The best one (fewest mistakes) was done in sparkly white fingering weight wool rather than cotton thread.

Ravelry Project: Four Practice Doilies
Ravelry Project: Two-tone Boo!
Ravelry Project: Christmas Ariel snowflakes

Yellow Hex Christmas Stocking

30 years ago my mom crocheted hexagon Christmas stockings for me and my four siblings. At some point my youngest sister’s stocking went missing. This year my mom and I decided to make a replacement.

New stocking (right) next to reverse-engineered old stocking

The original pattern could not be found. I found several similar patterns including this free one on Ravelry, but none of them were the same. So I reversed the pattern from one of the old completed stockings. My mom’s toe hexes are laid out differently than any of the other patterns I found: to get a round toe she seamed the pointy bits to the inside.

We made it using whatever worsted acrylic that was in my stash (most of it I inherited from my mom or sisters and is probably 20 years old itself!) plus some sparkly white sock yarn (held double). All of the old stockings are made from red, white, and green, but I actually really like the bright colors of this and it suits my sister’s personality.

Ravelry Project: Yellow Hex Replacement Christmas Stocking

Bonus: 3D Prints

Just before Christmas a friend gave me a 3D printer he no longer has time to use (an Ender 3 Pro)!

I have zero prior experience with 3d printing, but my very first print was successful: a little BMO character from Adventure Time (I scaled it to 25% before printing, so it is only about 1" across).

But my attempts at printing were not always immediately successful. In particular any model with small-diameter features on the first layer would often not adhere. After spending hours leveling and re-leveling, I found that the most effective thing was usually to wash the build surface with soap and water (and not merely wipe it with isopropyl).

To increase the ratio of my time spent printing vs leveling, I replaced the build surface with a PEI surface (which is great because once the bed cools down the prints pop right off), replaced the bed-leveling springs with stiff silicone spacers (as recommended in several reddit threads), and installed a CR Touch “auto bed leveling” sensor which replaces the Z-axis limit switch with a sensor that can always zero to the surface of the print bed. To take full advantage of the CR Touch I upgraded the printer’s firmware to a version of Marlin that supports mesh-based auto leveling (I used the pre-built firmware by Shiny Upgrades; they also have a good general guide here: Ender 3 Pro Starter Guide).

I still have tons to learn, but I am now getting reliable first layer adhesion even for models with tiny circles. Overall, hobby 3d printing feels closely adjacent to yarn crafts. Except it is cheaper ($20/kg of PLA filament vs $200/kg of wool yarn) and faster (a large print can take 24 hours plus some setup time, while a large knitting project can take 24 weeks or more, all of it labor intensive).

There are currently several competing model/project database websites (Thingiverse, Printables, Thangs, …), though none of them are as feature-complete as Ravelry is for yarn crafts. I like the look-and-feel of Printables best, but Thingiverse has more models and its database of makes (“projects” in Ravelry terms) prompts for more metadata which I like. For now I’m using both.

— Thingiverse Make: Adventure Time BMO

Print-in-place

A springy gecko and a print-in-place shark

One of the coolest classes of designs made possible by 3d printing are so-called “print-in-place” models which have multiple parts joined by hinges printed as a single piece. Once the model is finished it can articulate with no assembly required. So far I’ve tried a hammer head shark and a 30-segment snake model, and they both worked perfectly.

Printables Make: Articulated Hammerhead Shark
Printables Make: Articulated Bone Dragon

Card kit

Another technique is to design models which print flat and then snap together into a 3d shape like this Christmas-themed X-Wing fighter.

Thingiverse Make: Snowflake X-Wing Kit Card Ornament

Vase mode

Vase mode (or “Spiralize Outer Contour” in Cura) is a way of printing vase-like models without a Z seam. The print nozzle continues around in a seamless spiral rather than printing discrete layers. This is analogous to crocheting continuously in the round instead of joining each round with a slipstitch.

I printed this pencil holder in some ombre filament I got as a Christmas gift (Creality Ender-PLA+ in colorway “Colourful”). I love how it turned out! Though it is a bit squishy… I should have probably increased the extrusion width to 0.6mm (with my 0.4mm nozzle). I will try that on future vase-mode prints.

Printables Make: Wavy Pencil Holder

Cookie cutters

By far the most pracitcal prints I’ve made so far are cookie cutters! The most popular is the fat unicorn.

Printables Make: Unicorn cookie cutter

Up next

In 2024 I hope to focus even more on knitting. Most immediately that means probably making a pair of Cookie A’s Monkey Socks, but more long term I intend to complete at least Level 1 of The Knitting Guild Association’s Master Hand Knitter program. I haven’t signed up yet, but I just registered as a TKGA member while writing this post!

I also hope to dedicate time to creating some knitting CAD tools.

In addition to knitting and crochet, I have a growing queue of sewing projects. I already have all of the materials for the Fremont tote bag, so that will probably be first up!

Knit & Crochet Finished Object Roundup 2020-2022

2023-01-01T06:57:46Z

I’m currently bringing in the new year while knitting a mitten. Here’s a quick look back at how I got here. (As usual, check the Ravelry link for the pattern, more photos, and more details of each project.)

2020 The Year of Blankets

In 2019 I wrote about how I started to knit again and finished a few projects (my first pair of socks and some hats) after having learned years earlier but never having finished anything other than a scarf. I had hoped that was the start of my knitting momentum, but I did even less in 2020.

Tunisian Crochet Blankets

Although I knit very little in 2020, I did experiment with Tunisian crochet and finished two blankets! I liked the first one so much that I made another one for my sister at the end of the year. They are both just Tunisian full stitch with a single crochet edge. The yarn I used is Premier Yarn’s Puzzle, which is a very soft and fuzzy bulky acrylic. The Tunisian full stitch texture works well with it, and the blankets are like very cozy chain mail.

Ravelry Project: RGB Blanket
Ravelry Project: Christmas Blanket

Doubleknit Potholder

I did knit one thing! A doubleknit potholder I made for my sister who raises chickens (that’s a hen duplicate stitched into one of the green diamonds). I designed the colorwork chart. It is my first real attempt at doubleknitting, using cotton yarn (so it can be used as a potholder without melting or burning), in a rush for Christmas, and unsurprisingly the tension is pretty wonky. It still gets used to this day, but it is even less square than when it was new.

Ravelry Project: Marshall Potholder

2021 More Crochet Experiments

Toe-up socks

Again I didn’t end up knitting much in 2021, but I did complete a pair of plain toe-up socks which [mostly] fit their intended recipient and were overall much better than my first attempt at socks.

Ravelry Project: Toe-Up Plan Mom Socks

Knit-brim Crochet hats

I also made a couple of hats where I crocheted (or Tunisian crocheted in the case of the honeycomb one) the hat body and knit the ribbed brim. I really like the combination of Tunisian for the top of the hat and knit for the rib; I will experiment with that further.

Ravelry Project: Kit Rib Crochet Beanie
Ravelry Project: Honeycomb Beanie v1

Tunisian scarf

I also designed a tunisian simple stitch scarf for my sister. My intention was to surface cross stitch a graphic into the scarf (using the grid created by the tunisian simple stitches), but the scarf had too much curl. I’ve designed a second version as a tube, to be crocheted in the round (which I think will be easier than working flat anyway), to solve the curling issue (and to more easily add pockets) that I need to get started on some day.

Ravelry Project: Daisy Scarf Prototype

2022 The Year of Sweaters!

This year is the year where I finally feel like I’ve become a knitter! I made my first sweater(s), first colorwork socks, first lace, first mittens.

Socks and Mittens

I branched out into some more complicated socks, including some lacey patterns (like this design by Wendy Johnson) and a colorwork pattern. This first pair was meant to be a Christmas gift but I didn’t finish it until January. This is the first time I have bought some fancy hand-dyed yarn (from an Etsy seller) for a project. (The yarn ended up producing some flashing/inadvertant stripes; oh well :shrug:)

Ravelry Project: Daisy Seaweed Socks

With the left over yarn I made a short pair of socks for another sister. This one uses the free A Thousand Vines pattern by Nancy Pelletier, which I had to modify to make a bit larger in circumference.

Ravelry Project: A Thousand Vines (but larger)

I also made some mittens that incorporate the same lace pattern from the Seaweed Socks pattern (one pair without the yarnovers, to make it a little warmer).

Ravelry Project: Daisy Seaweed Mittens

These socks are from a free colorwork pattern using some Universal Bella Cash yarn I got on sale. I’m very happy with how they turned out.

Ravelry Project: Sweet Dumplin' Socks

Echo Flower Shawl

I’m not even sure what a shawl is for, but I came across several free patterns of impressive-looking lace I want to try. First up is this Echo Flower Shawl pattern by Jenny Johnson Johnen. The pattern incudes a full shawl as well as a smaller “shoulderette” which I made. My first lace pattern… it was fun to see it open up with blocking.

Ravelry Project: Echo Flower Shawl

Sweaters

I finally made a sweater! I first bought some bulky wool yarn to try a circular yoke design, but then I got on sale some worsted-weight acrylic yarn and decided to make a Flax by Tin Can Knits (a very popular topdown, seamless raglan). I still haven’t gotten to the bulky colorwork sweater.

Ravelry Project: first sweater! (colorblock Flax with brioche mittcuffs)

I wanted to make a T-shirt, and I got some rustic linen/wool/cotton yarn on sale that I thought might work. The pattern uses Phrancko’s seamless set-in sleeve construction (https://phrancko.com/). I also attempted a patch pocket. It turns out the yarn is both heavier and itchier than I expected, so it is more like a short-sleeve sweater and I haven’t worn it much.

Ravelry Project: Nerdy Hippie Tee

For my birthday I got some Aran-weight wool yarn that I made into an Aran sweater following Caryn Shaffer’s free Handsome Chris Pullover pattern (it is based on the sweater featured in the Knives Out movie). This was my first seamed garment.

Ravelry Project: a handsome chris for chris

Shadow Knit Potholder

I have plans to make a shadow knit sweater. To practice that technique, I made this potholder. The idea is that when viewed straight on it looks like horizontal stripes, but when viewed at an acute angle, vertical stripes appear.

Ravelry Project: Shadow Knit Potholder

Hats

My sister brought me a skein of wool yarn from a trip to Spain, and I used it to make a couple of cabled hats designed by Irina Dmitrieva.

Ravelry Project: Spanish Iced Hat
Ravelry Project: Spanish Pinecone Hat

Maybe my favorite hat I’ve made, with its fun and warm double-thick brim. It was designed by Kristine Byrnes for the Seamen’s Church Institute’s Christmas At Sea program. I made this one out of leftover yarn from my Flax sweater.

Ravelry Project: 1898 Hat

Up next

I knit my sister one of these octopus mittens (based on the beautiful pattern by Emily Peters). I’m currently working on the second one. And then early next year the plan is to make a matching Embrace Octopus Sweater! We already bought the yarn.

FO Roundup December 2019

2019-12-04T04:48:59Z

I’m a slow knitter. My ravelry.com account is nine years old today, and I’ve just posted my first projects (and design!)

Socks

I wanted to try something with some more shape than my usual hats and scarves. I didn’t follow any pattern, but I read about different ways to do heels and toes. I found the various “sock recipes” you can find online to be helpful (like Vickie Howell’s How to Knit Socks).

I ended up working cuff down: a few inches of ribbing with a 9" circumference, a heel flap, what I think is a French heel or similar, a gusset, the foot tube until it fit my feet, decrease for the toe, and then Kirchner stitch to finish the toe.

I used the magic loop method, and got a bit turned around after finishing the heel, but figured out a way to proceed. I’m sure there’s lots of ways to handle socks on a magic loop.

They are comfortable! I like the self-striping yarn. No one believes me, but I intentionally did not start the socks at the same place in the striping.

More details on my Ravelry Project: Learning Socks

Dad Cable Hat

After having made several very simple stockinette hats, I wanted to try something a bit fancier looking. So I tried this “Cabled Dad Hat” pattern by Alexis Winslow. Mine turned out with rather stiff peaks at the decreases, I think because of the yarn I used, but I like the pattern: the twists give it nice texture without looking too cable-heavy.

Ravelry project: Cabled Dad Hat

Ombre Hat

I also wanted to try one with a little bit of color work. Emily Dormier’s Quick Ombré Hat is a simple two-color pattern with a nice fade effect.

Ravelry project: Quick Ombré Hat

Hats for the Homeless and a Simple Crochet Cap Pattern

Years ago, when my Ravelry account was still young and blank, a friend taught me how to crochet a simple beanie as part of a "hats for the homeless" event she organized. I’ve written down that pattern along with some notes for the beginner: Simple Crochet Beanie Cap Pattern and Notes. I also re-discovered some of the hats we created at that event, added a few more, and (finally) donated them to a local charity that distributes them at its free health clinics and soup kitchens.

The Warm Up America! Foundation coordinates the collection of knit/crochet goods for similar charities throughout the country.

Crochet Your First Hat: Simple Beanie Cap Pattern and Notes

2019-12-03T22:32:05Z

A friend organized a project to crochet hats for the homeless (or other cold people) one winter. She gave us a simple hat pattern to learn and these notes are my attempt to make sense of it and explain to other beginning crocheters, including a schematic diagram. So this is not my original design (it’s so simple that it and similar designs have likely been independently made many times) — though I did make a small modification to remove the seam the original pattern left down the entire length of the hat.

This pattern is also available on Ravelry: Simple Crochet Beanie

Yarn, hook size, sizing

Use a medium/worsted weight yarn. Acrylic yarn is inexpensive and nonallergic, but it does not retain heat when it gets wet and it melts when exposed to open flame which could pose a safety concern. Wool stays warm even when it is wet and does not melt, but it is expensive and some people are allergic to it. All of the hats pictured in these pattern notes are made with 100% acrylic yarn.

As presented below this pattern is for an adult-sized cap of about 20" circumference. The exact hook size gauge is not critical, but aim for 14 hdc per 4". The size can be adjusted both by changing hook size and by changing the number of increase rows performed at the beginning of the pattern. Anything from size H to J (5.0-6.0mm) hooks should work well with worsted yarn.

Pattern

Here is how to make the basic hat, presented as a typically terse crochet pattern. It is explained in detail in the notes below.

Key

For an overview of reading crochet patterns (and other tips on getting started) see the Craft Yarn Council’s “How to Read a Crochet Pattern”.

Hdc	Half-double crochet stitch (called half-treble crochet in the UK) ^[1]. This is the stitch which is used throughout the entire pattern.
Sc	Single crochet stitch (called double crochet in the UK).
Join	Join rows with a slip stitch ^[2]
( ) repeat	repeat the instructions in the parenthesis the number of times specified.
(#)	Number in parenthesis at end of row denotes the total number of stitches you should have on the circumference of the hat after completing that row.

Row 0	Chain 1. This first loop will be the center of the hat.
Row 1	Chain 2 (so you now have 3 chains), make 8 hdc in third chain from hook. Join. (9)
Row 2	Chain 2, hdc in same stitch, 2 hdc in each remaining stitch. (18)
Row 3	Chain 2, hdc in same stitch, 1 hdc in next stitch, (2 hdc in next stitch, 1 hdc in next stitch) repeat to end of round. Join. (27)
Row 4	Chain 2, hdc in same stitch, 1 hdc in next two stitches, (2 hdc in next stitch, 1 hdc in next two stitches) repeat to end of round. Join. (36)
Rows 5-7	Continue increasing as in Row 4. Each row will have an additional hdc between every increase: chain 2, hdc in same stitch, 1 hdc in next Row#-2 stitches (that’s the row number minus two), (2 hdc in next stitch, 1 hdc in next Row#-2 stitches) repeat to end of round. Join. (72)
Row 8	Chain 2, hdc in same stitch, 1 hdc in next six stitches, (2 hdc in next stitch, 1 hdc in next six stitches) repeat to end of round. Do not join! (72)
Rows 9-end	Hdc in next stitch (instead of slip), continue around making one hdc in each stitch until hat is of desired length.
Finish	Make last two stitches as sc to reduce the offset caused by the spiral. Cut yarn and pull through last stitch to secure.

Pattern Schematic Diagram

See below for a detailed textual description of the pattern. But it can also be useful to look at a blueprint diagram to understand the structure of a crochet pattern.

Key

	Half-double crochet (hdc)
	Chain
	Slip stitch

Resources for reading crochet diagrams:

“How to Follow a Stitch Diagram in Crochet”: http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-follow-a-stitch-diagram-in-crochet.html
“Crochet chart symbols”: http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/chart_crochet.html
“Annie’s Stitch Guide”: https://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=708&type_id=S&scat_id=3

Figure 1. Schematic of Hat Pattern

(SVGversion)

The above image shows a graphic representation of the hat pattern. Each row is a different color to make it easier to follow. Read it like this:

The base chain 3 is the red chain in the center. Start there and then read counterclockwise (left-handed crocheters will read counterclockwise, but actually work clockwise).
Work around Row 1 (black), making 8 hdc through the first loop of the base chain.
When you get back around, make a slip stitch (the solid circle symbol) into the top loop of the base chain.
Move up to the next row (green): chain 2. Continue around to the left of that chain making 17 hdc (two into each of the hdc of the previous row), then joining to the starting chain with a slip stitch.
… and so on until you get to the last row shown in the schematic (bright green). In this row notice you only make one hdc in each stitch of the previous row. Repeat this row until the hat is the desired length.

The diagram only increases to 63 stitches for a smaller hat. Add one more row of increasing for a larger hat.

By looking at the schematic you can see:

How the turning chain 2 of each row acts like an hdc in the pattern
Where each increase is made
- Each increase is made on the first stitch of the increase directly below it
The seam formed by the slip stitch and turning chain of each row

Notes on Pattern

To the beginner

This is a beginner-friendly pattern (which assumes you know or can look up the basics of chaining, slip stitches, and crochet stitches) except for the first two rounds. It starts off by putting 8 stitches through a single loop which gets quite crowded and can be very difficult to see what’s going on. Having an experienced crocheter on hand to help you get the hat started can save lots of frustration. Using a lightweight and light-colored yarn, a larger hook, and having good lighting will make these first rows easier.

Row 0: Chain 1

The first step is to attach the yarn to the hook with a slipknot. Maybe leave the loop formed by the slipknot a little loose rather than cinching it close to the hook in order to make the first row easier (this loop is where you’ll make the first 8 stitches). Then make one chain stitch, which will be the center of the top of the hat. You’ll make the first 8 stitches through that loop which, when joined, will form a circle. The next rows then work around that circle increasing its diameter for the crown of the hat.

If the tail end of the yarn is getting in your way, you can cut it short.

Alternatives for center loop

The first few rows are the most difficult because it is hard to see what is happening and where the next stitch is. The first row is especially difficult since you can lose track of the center loop before finishing the 8 stitches. Here are two alternative methods of beginning which give a bigger first loop to make all 8 initial stitches into so it is easier to work with.

Chain Loop

First chain five or six. Then slip stitch into the first chain you made to join into a ring. Then continue the pattern from Row 1. The difference is that you will make all 8 stitches in Row 1 into the center of the ring of chains you made instead of trying to do them all through a single chain stitch.

Base Adjustable Ring ("Magic Ring")

Another way to begin with a bigger base ring for making the first 8 stitches in is to make a loop of yarn, make all 8 stitches into it, and then pull to close the loop. The advantage is that it is easier to stitch the 8 first stitches into a large ring, and you can then pull the ring closed so that hat won’t have a big hole at the top.

Good written instructions for the magic ring can be found in this tutorial by Vivid Kreations. Both of these alternative methods are also demonstrated in many YouTube videos, such as this one by B.Hooked Crochet & Knitting:

Row 1: Chain 2, make 8 hdc in third chain from hook. Join. (9)

You are going to make 8 hdc stitches into the first chain you made (the one furthest from the hook), which you will then join together into a circle.

The chain 2 you make at the beginning of every row counts as an hdc stitch. Two chains equals the height of one half-double crochet stitch, and you will always chain 2 at the beginning of every row while increasing. So when you complete Row 1 you’ll have 9 stitches on the circumference: 8 hdc + the chain. You should be able to count 9 V-shaped stitches which you will work into on the next row.

Figure 2. The first row of 8 hdc joined to the initial turning chain. This little circle will become the top of the hat.

Half-Double Crochet (HDC)

The entire hat is made out of half-double crochet stitches which creates a slightly more dense (and warm) fabric than double crochet, but builds up faster than using single crochet:

Wrap the yarn over the hook towards your body. This is called yarn over (often abbreviated to yo in patterns). You should now have 2 loops on the hook.
Insert hook through the next stitch to be worked. For Row 1 this means to insert the hook through the center loop for all 8 hdc. For other rows, insert beneath both strands that form the V shape of the top of each stitch. (You can instead insert through the two strands to only pick up one of them; this will result in a more flexible fabric.)
Yarn over hook.
Use the tip of the hook to pull the yarn up through stitch. You should now have 3 loops on the hook.
Yarn over hook. You should now have 4 loops on the hook.
Pull the loop closest to the tip of the hook through all 3 other loops on hook. That completes the half-double stitch (you should be left with one loop on the hook, and you can start again into the next stitch to be worked).

Joining rows

At the end of each of the first 8 rows, join to the beginning of the row by making a slip stitch into the top loop of the turning chain you started the row with:

Insert the hook through the stitch (the top turning chain loop).
Yarn over.
Pull the yarn up through both the stitch and the loop already on the crochet hook. You should be left with a single loop on the crochet hook ready to chain.

When inserting the hook into the chain stitch, don’t just insert it in the space beneath the chain. That will result in a more-visible seam on the hat. Instead insert it beneath the V of the top loop of the chain like you do every other stitch.

After joining a row, you will begin a new row by chaining 2. The purpose of joining and chaining is to bring the next row to the proper height for a hdc without stretching the stitch. However, the line of join and turning chains is often visible as a seam-like line in the finished work. For that reason, after the increases in the crown of the hat have been completed this pattern no longer calls for joining and chaining between rows. Instead make the first stitch of the new row directly on the first stitch of the previous row. The distortion of an hdc directly spanning rows is minimal, and this allows creating the main part of the hat with no visible join seam.

Row 2: Chain 2, hdc in same stitch, 2 hdc in each remaining stitch. (18)

In this row we make two hdc stitches in each of the 9 stitches from Row 1, which doubles the size of the circle.

Remember, the chain 2 you do at the start of each row counts as an hdc stitch, so only make one actual hdc stitch into the same stitch you chained from (that’s why the pattern reads: chain 2, hdc in ‘same’ stitch)

Don’t worry, it gets easier to see what you’re doing and where to make stitches after this row.

Figure 3. The circle after round 2

Rows 3-7 Chain 2, hdc in same stitch, 1 hdc in next Row#-2 stitches, (2 hdc in next stitch, 1 hdc in next Row#-2 stitches) repeat to end of round. Join.

These rows uniformly increase the size of the circle. Working two hdc into the same stitch is called an ‘increase’ and effectively adds one stitch to the circumference of the hat. On each of Rows 3-8 you’ll increase 9 times.

Each of Rows 3-8 begins with a chain 2, which counts as an hdc, followed by an hdc in that same stitch. So every row begins with an increase. The remaining 8 increases are spread evenly around the row. On Row 3 you make a single hdc in the next stitch after each increase. On Row 4, you make a single hdc in the next ‘two’ stitches after each increase. And so on. So the number of hdc you make in each stitch around the hat follows this pattern (remember the first 2 consists of the chain + the first hdc):

Row 3	2, 1, 2, 1… 2, 1
Row 4	2, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1… 2, 1, 1
Row 5	2, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1… 2, 1, 1, 1
Row 6	2, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1… 2, 1, 1, 1, 1
Row 7	… and so on

Notice every row ends in a single hdc. That is a good way to test if you counted correctly for that row.

How do you know where to make the next increase if you lose count? Every increase is made exactly above the stitch formed by the increase made in the previous row. It is possible to examine the previous rows to find where to make the next increase. You can also count the stitches you’ve already made.

What if you don’t make the increase in the correct spot? It doesn’t really matter. You may end up with a slightly less round circle, or without exactly 72 stitches on the circumference, but it will probably not be noticeable.

If, however, you consistently make too many or too few increases, you’ll end up with a hat that is too big or too small.

For a smaller hat, stop increasing after row 7 and go on to Row 9. This gives a circumference of 63 stitches instead of 72.

Figure 4. Ready to join after Round 6

Row 8: Chain 2, hdc in same stitch, 1 hdc in next six stitches, (2 hdc in next stitch, 1 hdc in next six stitches) repeat to end of round. Do not join! (72)

This is the last increase row. When you get to the end of the row you should have 72 stitches on the outside of your circle. Do not join with a slip stitch; instead you will begin the next row with a hdc

Figure 5. Row 8 is complete, and the first stitch of Row 9 (an hdc and not a chain) has been made

Rows 9-end: Chain 2, hdc in the next and every stitch around. (72)

Now you’re done increasing. Keep crocheting a single hdc in each stitch all the way around each row until the hat has the length that you want. Try it on every now and then to see how it fits.

Figure 6. Making progress

Finish: Make last two stitches as sc to reduce the offset caused by the spiral. Cut yarn and pull through last stitch to secure.

Once the hat is long enough (I like it to cover my ears), finish off with a couple single crochet stitches which will create a less pronounced step between the last and second-to-last rounds.

Cut the yarn leaving a few inches and pull the end through the last loop on the hook. Pull to secure. To make it more secure, weave the end under a few strands on the inside of the hat and then trim it off.

Figure 7. Completed hat

Variations and Next

Try using this basic pattern as a platform for experimentation. Do the whole hat in double crochet. Switch yarn colors every few rounds to make a striped hat. Add a single crochet ribbed brim to the hat. Try adding non-increasing rows between the initial increasing rows to give the hat a longer shape.

The Warm Up America Foundation collects donated hand knit and chrochet items to distribute to people who need them.

Figure 8. Hat with double crochet brim

Figure 9. Hat with multiple yarn colors

Figure 10. Striped hat with knit rib. Made with a 6mm hook, I changed between two balls of yarn every row (brown and a variegated pink/grey). I stopped the hat once it was about 6" long and picked up the stitches on 5mm 16" circular knitting needles to knit the k1p1 ribbed brim.

Similar Patterns

Basic Men’s Beanie Free Pattern Workshop by Deja Joy - basically the same pattern; designd for a bigger hook so works up even faster.
Easy Breezy Beginner’s Crochet Beanie by Bonnie Barker
Seamless Double-Crochet Hat with the Invisible Join Method

1. Half-double crochet instructions w/photos: https://web.archive.org/web/20120415065415/http://renee-blixt.suite101.com/the-half-double-crochet-stitch-a40770

2. http://crochet.about.com/od/learnbasics/qt/slst.htm